STEP 1 - Stabilizer bar comes Pre-installed already. The bar is aluminum so if you are ever going to remove the bar using a wrench make sure you take precautions to pad the wrench or gas plug so you do not mar the finish. 2A- The front clamp works and looks best if it is positioned just behind the grove on the front of the Stabilizing bar as show above. DO Use Blue Loctite on the two clamping screws if you do not want them coming loose. But with 40 Inch Pounds of torque they should not need Loctite.

STEP 2 - Gas Block Portion of the Barrel Stabilizer II Instructions

1. You have received your new gas block. The First Thing We Request of you is that you NOT try to rotate the Gas Pressure Adjustment Screw!!!
2. You must first install your gas bushing from your current Ruger factory gas block into the new gas block or the pre-Cut Bushing you purchased from us which does not need to be trimmed for length.
3. When installing the bushing into your new gas block MAKE SURE that the gas bushing will drop all the way in and bottom out in the gas pipe recess.
4. If the gas bushing does not drop all the way in and seat you will damage the gas pipe when you tighten the gas block to the barrel. If the gas block will not sit flush on the barrel, then you do not have the bushing seated correctly or the gas bushing is too long. If the bushing it too long, it may have to be trimmed in length. (If you are not sure how to do this call us we will be happy to help you or go to www.accuracysystems.com and view our instructions page on how to trim gas bushings.)
5. Once the bushing is seated install the gas block to the barrel.
   1. Install all supplied 8-32 screws (Do Not Try To reuse your factory screws they are the wrong thread!!) When all four gas block screws are installed make sure the gap on both sides of the gas block top & bottom are even.
   2. Use a 9/64 wrench to hand tight all 8-32 screws evenly. Then go back with a torque wrench and set the INCH POUND TO 40 and finish tightening. Do the same with the front clamp, tighten 25 INCH POUNDS DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CLAMP! Make sure you put the washers provided between the clamps as you received them or you will damage the clamp by stretching them to close together.
   3. Then install the Gas Pressure Set Screw See Step 3 below. Once Step 3 is completed it is time to test fire your rifle.
      
6. The G.P.A.S. is pre-set 1/2 open. DO NOT BACK IT OUT ANY FURTHER!!
7. Fire 3 to 5 rounds and take notice where the spent shell casings land. Optimally 4 to 10 feet is about the proper distance and proper gas pressure setting in which you should try to achieve.
8. If the rifle is not ejecting the spent casing in the 4 to 10-foot range you will need to make a gas pressure adjustment. (If rifle is not cycling then more pressure is needed. If it is cycling too hard then less gas pressure is needed. To make adjustments Loosen the 4-40 lock nut on the set screw and turn the set screw slightly counter clockwise to remove pressure off the G.P.A.S. Then slightly turn the gas pressure adjustment screw located in the front of the gas block below the barrel in the desired direction. (clockwise is less gas pressure and counter clockwise is more gas pressure). Then re-tighten the 4-40 set screw and 4-40 lock nut so that the set screw will not back out and re fire the rifle. Repeat the steps until you achieve the results as mentioned above in numbers 7 & 8.
9. If the rifle is throwing the spent casings further than you would like you will need to start to close the G.P.A.S. one 16th turn at a time. Then fire the rifle and repeat if needed until you achieve your desired gas pressure adjustment screw position. A little turn can make a big change so turn G.P.A.S in small increments.
10. If you are not sure where full open should be because you have moved the G.P.A.S. during installation, remove the gas block and gas bushing then look into the gas hole where the gas bushing was. You should be able to see the tip of the gas pressure screw in the gas hole. Make an adjustment till the tip of the screw is just starting to come into view and that will be wide open. When you start to make an adjustment clockwise you will start to see the screw come across the gas hole and start to close it off this is reducing gas pressure. If you continue to turn the G.P.A.S you will close off the gas hole completely and the rifle will not cycle. When fully closed there is no gas delivered to the operating rod and the rifle will not cycle. At that point you can now slowly turn the G.P.A.S. counter clockwise a maximum of 3 full turns and no more, that will be fully open. If you do open the G.P.A.S. more than 3 turns you will lose the G.P.A.S. and the replacement cost is $20.00.

STEP 3 - When you receive the gas block the Gas Pressure adjustment screws Set Screw is not installed. You will need to install it. >>

1. After gas block is installed you will need to install 4-40 set screw components.


2. Set screw components compose of: One set screw, One Lock nut and one 3/32” aluminum ball.


3. 1. Drop the Very small aluminum cylinder into the threaded hole on the left side of the gas block in which the 4-40 Set screw will be installed.
   2. Then install the lock nut on to the 4-40 set screw, and screw it on until it reaches the head of the 4-40 set screw.
   3. Then insert the 4-40 set screw with Lock nut installed into the same hole you inserted the 3/32” aluminum cylinder, screw it in until it stops.
   4. Now snug up the 4-40 Set screw so that the gas pressure screw is held firmly in place and will not turn or in out of the current gas pressure setting.
   5. Then screw the 4-40 Lock nut down until it touches the gas block.
   6. At this point holding the 4-40 set screw still, tighten the 4-40 lock nut snug enough to keep the 4-40 set screw from backing out.


4. After following all of step number (3) above you are ready to shoot the rifle.


5. Fire 3 to 5 rounds and take notice where the spend shell casings land. Optimally 4 to 10 feet is about the proper distance and proper gas pressure setting in which you should try to achieve.


6. If the rifle is not ejecting the spent casing in the 4 to 10-foot ejection window as stated in number (5) you will need to make a gas pressure adjustment. If not cycling more pressure is needed, if cycling to hard then less gas pressure is needed. Follow step number 7.


7. Loosen the 4-40 lock nut. Then slightly turn the gas pressure screw located in the front of the gas block below the barrel in the direction needed. (clockwise is less gas pressure and counter clockwise is more gas pressure). Then re-tighten the 4-40 lock nut so that the set screw will not back out and re fire the rifle. Repeat the steps until you achieve the results as mentioned above in numbers 5 & 6.

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